Victor’s Shovel Chopper

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Victor
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 10:01 pm
Location: Adelaide
Interests: Building choppers and riding off into the sunset

Re: Victor’s Shovel Chopper

Post by Victor » Sun Sep 09, 2018 8:01 pm

I’ve got some good things done in the last week or so, but am afraid to say made a bit of a mess of the oil tank... the idea of smoothing inbetween the fins with urethane sounded good, but i was disappointed in the execution of it. To make things worse, the urethane is going to be impossible to get out!! So right now my oil tank is in crisis, trying to figure something out before a custom bike show next Saturday!! Nothing like deadlines!!

Some wins in other areas though so I’ll go through those.


First up was to repair the petrol tank paint where the fuel tap leaked a while back. 2pack clear is fuel resistant, but the fuel got underneath and blistered this whole area. I found it more difficult to do paint repair than a whole new piece, particularly so that it is unnoticeable.

The damage with the paint edges feathered
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Etch primed bare steel.
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Blue base coat.
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Effect applied.
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Cleared in 2pack again. Good result I think.
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Next, oil filter mount fittings. I had straight fittings before but the bends were a bit extreme for the oil lines, here they are replaced with 45 degree fittings.

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Onto the carburettor. About 4 years ago the plastic housing on my choke cable broke, and I glued it back together with epoxy. Crude but it worked for that long, until the choke would no longer hold itself on. Note that on a CV carb it’s not actually a choke, its an enricher circuit.

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Old cable broken off, plate cleaned up, and a new cable ready to go on. Cheap part, should have done it ages ago!
Plastic knob on the end is standard, but this is a chopper so we can do better than that...
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Between wheeled & house projects, I tend to spend a lot of time looking around bunnings, and often surprise myself what one can find and improvise with. Like these solid polished brass knobs, $2.50 each. I ground off original plastic knob, and drilled out the new brass one to fit over the cable shaft.

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Next is to do the same type of knob for my idle speed adjuster, but I needed to extend the shaft out to be easily accessible. I don’t have a lathe, but that just means ya gotta be more creative...

6mm round bar with the end centre punched by eye.

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Now mount the round bar IN the chuck of the pedestal drill. Once it’s chucked up, clamp the other end of the work piece tightly in the vice and loosen the chuck.

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Now chuck up the intended drill bit, and gently have at it. It’s not going to win awards for accuracy, but way better than you’ll ever do by hand.

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Tapped onto the end of the shaft and welded on.

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Onto lathe substitute #2.

Chuck the piece up in the cordless. Could do this in the pedestal drill too but I just tend to use the cordless for everything these days. Drill on with one hand, angle grinder with flap disc in the other hand...

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To fit the balls on to the shafts, I used a two step approach. First of all, I flattened the shafts a bit with a hammer so they would be a really tight fit. I also used epoxy inside the hole to really make sure they don’t come loose.

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Rightio. Next job. A shift lever that I’ve been thinking of for a while, finally got the right part to make it from. Starting with a piece of stainless plate with the pattern traced on and clocked correctly.

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Edges Veed and clamped up ready to weld. Might look familiar to some.

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All welded and now ready to blend.
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Taken down with a 60grit flapdisc.
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Then on with the fine 240g disc. These are expensive but I don’t often polish stuff fully. Work very well though.
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Smoothed out and polished on my little buffing wheel. Starting to become obvious now.
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Boom, there ya go. Stoked with this piece.
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Final shot of it fitted up, just one of those details that most people will never notice, but a few will love. Oil tank looks terrible. Hope to resolve it somehow this week.
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Solved an issue where my kickstart shaft had become really stiff too. Prof and I had put new bushes in the kicker cover and honed them to size. Worked great for quite a while, then for some reason started to bind up. Took it all apart, bushes looked fine but I took the opportunity to clean up the kick shaft a bit. I mounted the shaft in the drill and took a bit off with some emery cloth. I hadn’t put enough preload into the return spring either so I fixed that at the same time.

That’s it for now. More oil tank work in the week, then a whole lot of cleaning and polishing Ready for the show on Saturday.

I now have all of the raw materials in stock for my springer build. Once the bike is out of the shed and less likely to have little bits of work done, I’ll dedicate time it the springer.

TriNortchopz
Posts: 48
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:41 pm
Location: Haines Junction,Yukon, Canada
Interests: Choppers, nature, learning more about choppers

Re: Victor’s Shovel Chopper

Post by TriNortchopz » Mon Sep 10, 2018 3:44 am

Great job with that tank repair. You have great ideas and the skills to fabricate them so they look awesome! It's obvious you love details; I do too. That blade handle shifter is better than the 'axle nut wrench', and blows away anything you could buy.
My idea for the eurethane would be to fabricate handles for a small round file and get in there...trying to think how a grinding wheel could be cut (dressed) to the shape you need and run it through each slot - kinda like cutting dadoes in wood with a table saw with a rip fence.

The oil lines look better with the 45* fitting on the filter - now you gotta make the top of the angle bracket the same shape as the oil filter mounting plate...
Got an idea to replace your clutch chain?

El Skitzo
Posts: 727
Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:40 pm
Location: Perth, WA

Re: Victor’s Shovel Chopper

Post by El Skitzo » Mon Sep 10, 2018 10:20 am

Love watching your work. Taking an idea and making it happen.

Bravo!
65 Triumph Chopper (project)

Prof
Founder, Choppers Australia
Posts: 5753
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
Location: Willunga, South Australia
Contact:

Re: Victor’s Shovel Chopper

Post by Prof » Fri Sep 14, 2018 10:57 pm

Very cool and very old school.
Chopit'nrideit... Prof

Victor
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 10:01 pm
Location: Adelaide
Interests: Building choppers and riding off into the sunset

Re: Victor’s Shovel Chopper

Post by Victor » Sun Sep 23, 2018 3:16 pm

It always seems to be a mad rush to get something done in time... the latest were these Knurled aluminium footpegs, which i machined with Prof’s help the night before a bike show.

I wanted solid pillion pegs to match the front, and this is what I came up with. The pillion pegs are just drilled and tapped solid bar, fine because they are quite short and mount straight onto the frame.

The riders pegs are bored out half their length to 16mm, with a steel shaft pressed in that provides the wearing surface for the pedal, and is tapped in the end for bolting up.

My knurling technique was not the best, but the result was definitely good enough for me. Might be getting the bike ready for a show, but it’s built to Ride!
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Pegs mounted up and the bike cleaned, as good as I can be bothered doing.

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This picture shows my pedal and brake light switch setup. The tab that pulls on the cable hooks round and rests on the mounting plate, preventing the pedal from rocking backwards. Simultaneously, the same piece is holding down a microswitch lever, wired up to be open circuit when the lever is depressed. Works great, switch is from Jaycar and easily replaced if needed.

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In the process of cleaning the bike I must have got some degreaser or water or something in the clutch plates, as the clutch was grabbing quite badly afterwards. Access doesn’t get any easier, I can have the pressure plate off and all the clutch discs out in about a minute.

Cleaned the plates and reassembled, but need to adjust the spring plate to sit evenly. There’s a tool for this but i don’t got it handy! Screwdriver and electrical tape to rescue! Just a matter of fiddling with the adjustment until the plate is pretty even all the way round. 5-stud clutches are notoriously hard to set up evenly compared to the stock 3 stud.

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Made it to the show all fine, had a great night, didn’t take many pictures at all, but here’s 3 choppers ripe and ready to roll.

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Trip to Melbourne planned in mid October, A few little things to do before we hit the road. Ordered a new coil and plug wires which should pep up the ignition a little. Other job is sorting out my luggage, and sorting out a system specific for the bike and my gear.

On to another side project for the next post...

Victor
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 10:01 pm
Location: Adelaide
Interests: Building choppers and riding off into the sunset

Re: Victor’s Shovel Chopper

Post by Victor » Sun Sep 23, 2018 6:35 pm

Start of the springer build.

This will be a bit of a slow burn/spare time project. Bike is perfectly rideable now and it will continue to be, with this being built along side.

I’ve done loads of research over the last few months and ideas have swung around quite a bit. Must have saved around a thousand pictures of old school springers, from mild to wild, built like tanks or to the absolute minimum. What I am building is a pretty typical narrow springer, built in my own flavour. Credit chopperhandbook.com , website is a goldmine of springer building information. I purchased his plans for reference but I am free styling most of this build.

It’s so disappointing that long forks are an issue in this fine country, it takes just as much work to build stock length compared to 30” over....

Rear legs are 1 1/4” x.120” DOM steel. This would probably be sufficient, but I want this to be bomb proof so I am inserting a full length piece of 1”x.120” DOM which is a snug fit. Front legs will probably be 1”x120” DOM, thinner front legs look nicer though so I might change.

Trees have zero offset and I will be doing original Harley style rockers to keep the trail similar to my glide front end (I like way it handles) and as close as possible to our favourite 550mm rule...

Start by plotting out the width of the legs. After some scribble time I figured out that I could run the tubes at 4.5” centre to centre and still fit my front drum, but it would be super close and probably frustrating. I settled on 5.5” centre-centre which is still pretty narrow and gives just enough room to mount standard 3.5” centre-centre bars using a socket head bolts.

Bottom tree, 16mmx50 flat bar. I’m making things really difficult for myself using hot rolled steel, but it’s readily available and much cheaper than cold roll. This will be fine but it just needs loads of work before I can even consider chrome plating.

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Holes drilled out with 4mm bit and transfered onto the other two plates.

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The large plate in the back is scrap of 20mm plate, luckily I was still able to use it even though it was a hair too narrow and already had a random hole in it.

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Slightly undersize holesaw set up in the drill press. People underestimate good quality holesaws, even this one is just a $20 bit from bunnings and it happily did all the holes for this project. Holesaws always tend to make an oversize hole, in this case i was maybe a bit too cautious and it left me with about 30.5mm .. so I need to take out another 1.3mm somehow. Should be able to get an extremely accurate fit which makes for a self-jigging fork.

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Spring plate with the main holes knocked out. You can see the remaining slugs behind, I keep all these and have a box full of them in various sizes. Comes in handy from time to time, Especially without a lathe.

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Plate rough cut to shape, no holesaw big enough for the inner curve so back to basics - a bunch of holes close together and then brute force.

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Bottom tree and spring bridge taking shape, ready for linishing. Bottom tree still needs the centr hole cut for the 1” stem. Spring plate needs holes drilled for headlight
And spring rods once I figure out what I’m doing there.

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12mm Top tree will be scrapped - Need to get a wee bit more 16x50. 12mm would probably be fine for both trees but 16mm just has a bit more meat on it.

That’s all for a lil while. I need to build my linishing machine before I can get much more done here. It’s a vintage Raleigh linisher, made in England. Had it for about 5 years and have never got around to making a stand for it and hooking up a motor. Too many jobs, not enough time!!

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