Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

LOTS OF HOW TO CHOPPER PROJECT REPORTS... We build choppers the old school way... craftsmanship and artistry. Photos of our work to give you ideas... Aftermarket parts, parts for Shovels, CB's and XS's, our own unique parts for sale...
Post Reply
Prof
Founder, Choppers Australia
Posts: 5896
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
Location: Willunga, South Australia
Contact:

Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by Prof » Fri Nov 02, 2012 11:04 pm

Last job to do for Steff is his electrics box. Once that is done I just have to finish off the welding and then send the chopper to be back to her master to complete the job. I think 1.6mm steel is the best balance between strength. lightness and ease of welding.

Chain is an issue with any electrics box planning. Chain bows out at speed and allowance needs to be made for its position when suspension is fully compressed. A few marks are made on the tyre allowing an extra half an inch to be safe... nothing much more agravating than a rattling chain...
Image

Depth required for battery fit... although Steff is planning a smaller than stock battery. XS carbies and air filters come back past the seat post. I've seen a few xs's with squashed/buckled air cleaners because the battery box is in the way.
Image

Working out angle of front outer edge after having made an aluminium base pattern. It sits on blocks of wood to give position.
Image

Steel base is marked out as we did with the seat; maximum width and centre line, using set square etc
Image

Base cut out and bent up and now measuring for sides... a tricky business with this design.
Image

Narrow front piece is made from 3mm steel as it will have a bolt through it into a threaded crush tube in the seat post. Can't remember what you call this little tool, but I use it all the time...
Image

Cardboard pattern made from measurements...
Image

Another pic showing back of box. Straight folds are best way to allow for the protruding mudguard...
Image

Making up a pattern of the curved section. An interesting exercise, made easier by keeping the front corner or the side as a 90 degree angle.
Image

A piece of pipe close to the required radius is easiest way of bending the reverse curve. Vice clamps the metal shile pulling on the side to get the bend. Takes up to 15 minutes of bending, straightening a little here and there and rebending in stages to get this curve just right...
Image

First side tacked... mostly just fusion welding with the DHC gas welder... 1.2 or 1.6mm steel can be welded fairly easily with a mig, but I find gas is tidier and I am lucky enough to have the necessary equipment.
Image

Both sides now finished...
Image

Three pics of the electrics box so far...
Image

The box will be held by one bolt up front and one on each side in the back corners. The "+" marks the centre of one of the holes
Image

Texta'd rectangle is where the box will be relieved for chain clearance. Should be finished tomorrow.
Image

Now to see if Steff is happy with the design...
Chopit'nrideit... Prof

Silent Grey Fellow
Posts: 290
Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:53 am
Location: NSW

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by Silent Grey Fellow » Sat Nov 03, 2012 9:45 pm

Great design Very happy with that
Image
Silent Grey Fellow

Cromag
Posts: 2563
Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2005 10:58 am
Location: NSW

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by Cromag » Sun Nov 04, 2012 5:10 pm

Nice
Does not work or play well with others
Loud pipes save lives
"These are not the Droids you're looking for"

Prof
Founder, Choppers Australia
Posts: 5896
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
Location: Willunga, South Australia
Contact:

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by Prof » Sun Nov 04, 2012 10:35 pm

Last couple of jobs on electrics box are mounts and cutout for chain...

Box will be mounted on each back corner and half way down at the front onto the seat post.
Rear mounts are made of 5mm plate and welded in.
Image

Next job is drilling a 7mm hole in the rectangular tube cross piece. Then the top side is opened up 14mm with a hole saw...
Image

Inserts are machined on lathe... 7mm centre hole countersunk to allow countersunk screw to be flush with the top...
Image

Bronze welded in...
Image

Now to drill the holes in the box itself. Getting holes to line up is paramount, so first we set up the electrics box on wooden blocks with a couple of wedges to keep it tight to the frame... We start on the right side... A 7mm drill is used just enough to put a counter sink in the top of the box bracket ie it acts like a centre drill to get the exact location...
Image

Now we use a 5 mm drill to drill a hole through the mounting bracket...
Image

Hole is tapped for M6 bolt...
Image

Countersunk bolt is screwed in to hold the box in place and now we repeat the process on the left side...
Image

With the rear bolted securely, now for the front mount. A 9mm hole has already been drilled in the front of the box about half way down, so we can use it as a guide for a hole in the seat post. Right angled drills come into their own in situations like this. If you don't have one, you may be have enough room if you shorten a drill bit. Another method is to use a three mm drill bit and drill at an angle, then take out the box and drill the post with the correct size drill bit...
Image

Here's the M8 threaded insert that will be welded into the seat post. It has a very thin lip to prevent it falling into the tube. The long bolt is to hold it while welding. A long bolt enables you to line it up correctly. I hung this one with fine wire from a heavy flat file laid across the seat rails... allows fine adjustment before welding...

A couple of further comments...You could just drill a hole right through the seat post and use a long bolt. If I did this I would prefer to put in a crush tube to keep up frame strength... an insert in one side only is the better set up. If Steff had plenty of money to through at this bike, I would actually drill a 14mm hole in the front of the box, weld in a 10mm length of this tube. Then a bolt with a rubber bush wouthat fits in the tube would be used. That way there can be no pressure pulling the box forwards. The way we have done it, Steff will need to pull the bolt up gently and use some locktight to stop it unwinding...
Image

Previously we measured with a long steel ruler and marked the maximum chain position on the rear frame tube, so now a quick check on depth and width and pull the box out and get everything straight with a square.
Image

A piece of rectangular or square tube is to be used for the relief, so the tube width is traced with a sharp instrument ontothe box. Then the hole is cut out with an angle grinder and the tube set in. Tube is now marked and cut to fit..
Image

... and welded in...
Image

Front of box is relieved so switches can be easily accessed...
Image

Finished electrics box installed... If I was doing the electrics I would then be setting up electrical components like coils, battery, fuses solenoid and welding in any mounts. I like to attach the regulator to the underside of the box. Puts it in the breeze to help cooling. However Steff will be doing that part so this is as far as I go on this bit..
Image
Chopit'nrideit... Prof

markee
Posts: 71
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:09 am
Location: Reynella S.A.

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by markee » Sun Nov 04, 2012 10:50 pm

Andrew, please excuse my ignorance, but 6 pictures from the end, what looks like an engine mounting bolt with a 'thingy' screwed to the end.I assume that acts as a nut without looking messy the other side of frame if drilled right thru & a normal nut used? What is it called & how attached to the hole????

Prof
Founder, Choppers Australia
Posts: 5896
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
Location: Willunga, South Australia
Contact:

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by Prof » Sun Nov 04, 2012 11:12 pm

I'm still writing up the post Mark. Have a look back in 10minutes...
Chopit'nrideit... Prof

Aussiehard
Posts: 669
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:31 pm
Location: Melbourne S.E.
Contact:

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by Aussiehard » Mon Nov 05, 2012 4:42 pm

Prof wrote:L
Image
Those filters are no good for the XS the rubber mounts block the holes in the mouth of the carbs.

Triker_chewie
Posts: 112
Joined: Thu Dec 24, 2009 10:40 pm
Location: WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by Triker_chewie » Wed Nov 07, 2012 11:53 pm

Prof wrote:Can't remember what you call this little tool, but I use it all the time...
Image
its an adjustable bevel
ace box!

Prof
Founder, Choppers Australia
Posts: 5896
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2005 3:54 pm
Location: Willunga, South Australia
Contact:

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by Prof » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:29 am

Thanks Chewie.

Good comment Aussie. What do you use instead of the pods as I've not seen much else available these days. Dhe pod filters do have a ridge inside which if pushed right against the carb body would block the top and two side holes off. Usually the rubbers don't go tight up, but wouldn't allow a straight flow of air especially to the top slot. Other guys I know use pod filters and don't seem to have a problem. But I'd suggest using an angle grinder to carve reliefs in the rubber ridge to improve the situaltion.

Anyone else with xs's have any comments?
Chopit'nrideit... Prof

Aussiehard
Posts: 669
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:31 pm
Location: Melbourne S.E.
Contact:

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by Aussiehard » Thu Nov 08, 2012 12:45 pm

Prof wrote:Thanks Chewie.

Good comment Aussie. What do you use instead of the pods as I've not seen much else available these days. Dhe pod filters do have a ridge inside which if pushed right against the carb body would block the top and two side holes off. Usually the rubbers don't go tight up, but wouldn't allow a straight flow of air especially to the top slot. Other guys I know use pod filters and don't seem to have a problem. But I'd suggest using an angle grinder to carve reliefs in the rubber ridge to improve the situaltion.

Anyone else with xs's have any comments?

It is not a POD Filter issue as such it is those particular filters the cheap S/Steel ones as you find on ebay. The K&N, Mikes XS, UNIPod all seem to be fine.

I was having a lot of problems with intermittent reving of the bike at idle and poping and farting. I was told by an XS mechanic 7 restorer from the XS650 Club it was the filters and to try riding home with out them on……..It fixed the problem.

Did some write ups on pod models pros & Cons on my Blog as well as the issue with the filters your using and I have.

http://theflyingxs.blogspot.com.au/2012 ... tions.html

http://theflyingxs.blogspot.com.au/2012 ... -mods.html

http://theflyingxs.blogspot.com.au/2012 ... -tech.html

Might be more info on the blog if you read through. One work around which I am looking into is to fit a piece step down pipe between the pod and carb or rubber hose to allow $5 pods which is abig saving over $80 K&N.

There has also been discussion on if the turbulence produced by pods with "zig zag" sides is a benefit or hinderance. Personally I would like to make up some filtered velocity stacks.

Of course different pods require jetting to be tested.

Bearcx
Posts: 1894
Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 12:31 am
Location: Gawler, Sth Aust
Contact:

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by Bearcx » Thu Nov 08, 2012 5:11 pm

Interesting read, Aussie. Thanks.

Would have thought turbulence from the air filter was a benefit to air/fuel mixing.?
A lot of 'younger folk' believe that poting and polishing is the be all and end all of head mods, but without the velocity, fuel sticks to the walls,and runs down. The rough casting actually aids in creating turbulence.

Just a thought..
The brave may not live long, but, the cautious do not live at all.

cjmeg
Posts: 240
Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 11:08 pm
Location: Clare

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by cjmeg » Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:28 pm

You are right, Mr Bear, so the experts say - why pod filters usually cut power levels..
A short length of s/s tube between filter and carb helps, apparently, to smooth out air flow.
I suspect the length varies on the carb/engine - on the VMax, the best length is 80mm!
Time to start playing with the Vmax.
Oh and maybe I should finish the trike too!

Silent Grey Fellow
Posts: 290
Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:53 am
Location: NSW

Re: Steff's xs #7 Electrics Box...

Post by Silent Grey Fellow » Fri Nov 09, 2012 7:37 pm

Aussiehard wrote:
Prof wrote:L
Image
Those filters are no good for the XS the rubber mounts block the holes in the mouth of the carbs.
Should be all OK as the bike will more than likely be running these carbs

Image

Mikuni VM 34mm or 36mm
Image
Silent Grey Fellow

Post Reply

Return to “The Chopper Shed”